Olight Oclip Pro Review – Feature-Rich Clip Light

  1. Pricing & Availability
  2. What comes in the box?
  3. Design & Construction
  4. Size & Measurements
  5. User Interface
  6. Emitter & Beam
  7. Mode Chart
  8. Runtime
  9. Driver & Regulation
  10. Switch
  11. Carry & Ergonomics
  12. Batteries & Charging
  13. Competition
  14. Conclusion

Pricing & Availability

Olight sent me this light in exchange for an honest review. Here is the official product page where you can see current pricing. At the time of writing, the MSRP is $40 USD but it’s on sale for 20% off for Black Friday. That’s a tracked link so they know I sent you, but I have chosen not to receive any commissions from sales generated by that link.

What comes in the box?

Oclip Pro comes in Olight’s simpler box design. It’s white, printed cardstock. Inside is:

  • The light itself
  • User manual
  • USB A-to-C charging cable

Design & Construction

Build quality is excellent. It feels very well made, especially the moving parts like the switches, clip, and port cover. Those are where attention to detail really shows.

Size & Measurements

Skilhunt H300 | Skilhunt H150Olight Oclip Pro | Mini Maglite

MeasurementMeasured (mm)
Thickness~25
Width (not incl. switch)25.0
Length57.0
Max clip opening~11.5
Weight with included battery (g)53
U/M means I was unable to measure that dimension due to an inability to disassemble the light

User Interface

Olight did a great job with this UI, as usual.

The actions are # of presses followed by a hold (H) or a release (C). So, “1C” is one click and release. “2H” is two clicks but you hold down the last one.

StateActionResult
Off1COn (mode memory)
Off1H (short)Moonlight (memorized)
Off1H (long)Lockout
Off3CStrobe
Lockout1CBattery indicator glows red
Lockout1H (long)Unlock (to Moonlight)
Moonlight1HLow
Any2CTurbo (memorized as High)
Turbo2CReturn to previous mode (mostly*)
On1HCycle mode (low-med-high)
On3CBeacon
On1COff
White Light UI
StateActionResult
Off1COn (mode memory)
Off1H (short)Low
Off1H (long)Lockout
Lockout1CBattery indicator glows red
Lockout1H (long)Unlock (to Low)
Any2CHigh (not memorized)
Turbo2CReturn to memorized mode
On1HCycle mode (Low-Beacon)
On1COff
Red Light UI

What they got right:

  • Channel selection is a dedicated switch. The more multi-channel lights I review, the more I dislike the clutter of having everything on a single switch. A rotary toggle is the best solution I’ve used.
  • Clicking turns the light on/off and holding the button changes modes. That’s the way almost all e-switch flashlights should work. It’s intuitive and quick.
  • The common shortcuts work. Moonlight, Turbo, and Strobe all have shortcuts that work the same way as most other lights. They work very well and there’s no learning curve when switching lights.
  • There are 5 brightness levels, which is just the right amount. Enough to have options but not so many that it’s cumbersome to use.
  • The strobe is hidden behind a triple click outside the main rotation. You won’t activate it by accident.
  • High stays memorized. Previous Olight models would change the memorized mode from High to Medium after 5 minutes of inactivity. I’m glad to see they’ve removed that feature/bug.

What they got wrong (minor nitpicks):

  • Turbo & Moonlight are memorized. They shouldn’t be memorized because they each have their own dedicated shortcut for quick access. Since they’re memorized, accessing them will override your memorized mode. Even worse, Turbo is memorized as High! So not only does accessing turbo overwrite your memorized mode, it doesn’t even memorize properly! This has been a gripe of mine on Olight models for awhile.
  • Lockout/unlock is 1H from off. That’s too easy to accidentally deactivate and there’s no mechanical lockout on this light. Many other makers are moving to 4C to lock/unlock and I prefer that.
  • The red UI is different. Beacon mode is in the main rotation, but it should be behind a 3C action like the blinky mode in the white channels. High mode is behind a 2C action for some reason. It should be in the main rotation with Low. The modes in the red channel are good, but their organization is strange and different from the white channels.

Notes:

  • One at a time. You can’t activate the flood and throw simultaneously. The throw has plenty of spill to suffice, so you don’t need to.
  • There’s no timer. I don’t know why Olight chooses to include that feature in only some of their models.
  • 3C from on and 3C from off are different. Usually, 3C from anywhere is Strobe. On this light, 3C from off is Strobe and 3C from on is Beacon. (White channels only)
  • The product page mentions an SOS mode but I can’t find it anywhere in the light or the user manual. Perhaps it means the beacon mode.

Emitter & Beam

There are three emitters: one spotlight, one floodlight, and one red. I believe the spotlight is a Luminus SFT12, an excellent choice because of its small, domeless, round die. I don’t know what the flood or red LED models are. Both the flood and throw LEDs are cool and a bit green-ish. I would have liked to have a warmer, neutral-tinted flood LED.

I was shocked at how narrow the spotlight hotspot is considering the small reflector. It really does punch out a significant distance, much further than I expected. The flood beam is wide and even, but there’s some yellow tint shift at the edges. The red beam is wide too. All three beams are cut off by the square bezel to an extent.

In the beamshots below, camera settings are fixed and the wall is 2.8M away.

Olight Oclip Pro Flood | Olight Oclip Pro Throw
Olight Oclip Pro Flood | Skilhunt H150 Nichia
Olight Oclip Pro Flood | Acebeam Pokelit AA Nichia
Olight Oclip Pro Throw | Weltool T1 Pro V2
Olight Oclip Pro Throw | Olight Baton Turbo

In the beamshots below, camera settings are fixed, the basketball goal to the right of the hotspot is 39M away, and the power pole in the center is 185M away.

Olight Oclip Pro Flood | Olight Oclip Pro Throw
Olight Oclip Pro Flood | Skilhunt H150 Nichia
Olight Oclip Pro Flood | Acebeam Pokelit AA Nichia
Olight Oclip Pro Throw | Weltool T1 Pro V2
Olight Oclip Pro Throw | Olight Baton Turbo

Mode Chart

Disclaimer: All of my measurements are taken at turn-on. Lumen measurements were taken on a Texas Ace 3.5″ Lumen Tube. A candela measurement was taken at 10 meters with an Opple Light Master III on the highest brightness, and othern candela figures were calculated relative to that. CRI, CCT, & DUV data were taken for each mode from a few feet away at the center of the hotspot with the Opple Light Master and Waveform DUV Calculator. Runtime tests were performed with the Ceilingbounce app on my smartphone. These tests were performed with a fully charged included battery unless otherwise specified. I cannot measure moonlight directly, so moonlight readings are calculated based on the brightness relative to the next-lowest mode. None of this is professional equipment, so take these measurements with a grain of salt.

The official specs are above, followed by my own measurements below.

LevelLumensCandelaThrow (Meters)CRI (Ra)Color Temp. (K)DUV (Tint)
Turbo460600496960100.0067
High270350386859900.0071
Medium85110216859000.0080
Low6866858400.0084
Moonlight0.5<1<26858600.0083
Flood Channel
LevelLumensCandelaThrow (Meters)CRI (Ra)Color Temp. (K)DUV (Tint)
Turbo39051001436456800.0105
High23030001106355700.0123
Medium771000636154300.0143
Low678186153900.0158
Moonlight0.7965954100.0168
Throw Channel

Runtime

Flood | Throw

Performance is fair. Turbo lasts 1 minute before stepping down to High mode. Sustained output is about 250lm. Unfortunately, High mode also steps down at 1 minute for some reason, and I don’t like that. Total runtime is respectable outside of Turbo mode.

Thermal regulation: Timed stepdowns on Turbo and High mode. The light barely gets warm on Turbo, so the High mode stepdown is totally unnecessary. I think Turbo could easily last another 30-60 seconds before stepdown, and High mode shouldn’t step down at all.

LVP (Low Voltage Protection): When the battery is effectively empty, the light will shut itself off. It cannot be re-activated after shutoff without recharging it. If it shuts off and you try to turn it back on, it will just blink the switch LED red.

Driver & Regulation

Olight told me this is a Buck driver. Buck drivers usually provide better efficiency and regulation performance. I’m glad to see a Buck driver here at this relatively low price point.

Flood | Throw

Regulation performance is fair, a little below average. Below ~50% charge you lose Turbo mode, but it’s not that much brighter than High mode anyway.

PWM: No PWM is visible to my eyes or camera, nor audible to my ears.

Parasitic Drain: I can’t measure parasitic drain because the battery is inaccessible.

Switch

OClip Pro’s two switches are excellent. The main pushbutton switch controls on/off and brightness. It’s got a great action with a quiet but distinct click. The rotary toggle switch selects the beam. It’s got great detents and snaps to its 3 positions with authority. I love a good rotary toggle switch on multi-channel lights like this. It’s dramatically more intuitive than a complicated series of clicks and holds.

Carry & Ergonomics

Ergonomics are fine. The switches are in a good spot, so you can use them by pinching the light in a variety of grips or when it’s clipped/stuck to something. It’s not particularly comfortable as a handheld but it’s usable.

The clip is the biggest feature here. It’s spring-loaded and made of machined aluminum with silicone grip pads. It’s plenty strong and grippy to stay put almost anywhere you put it, and it shouldn’t tear up fabrics. When I first got it out of the box, it seemed upside down, but I got used to it. I think it’s oriented that way so you don’t smudge the lens when you squeeze the clip.

I didn’t find any situations where the clip really offered much. It’s very bulky in use as a traditional pocket clip. I tried clipping it to my shirt pocket and that put it at a good angle, but it swayed side to side when walking. I also tried clipping it between the buttons of my shirt and it held securely, but it pointed up a bit, so not good for general utility illumination. How would you use a clip like this? Let me know in the comments where I post this review.

A magnet is embedded in the clip on the hinge side. It’s strong enough to hold the light up on a vertical surface. Handy!

Batteries & Charging

The battery included is a built-in 580mAh pouch cell. It’s not user-serviceable, so you can’t replace it when the battery eventually wears out. That sucks, but there’s no other way to get this unique shape and look.

Charging is facilitated by a USB-C port on the side of the light opposite the button. It works while charging, but you can’t access High or Turbo. C-to-C cables work fine and it’s too small for a powerbank function.

The port cover is something I’ve never seen before. It’s metal and spring-loaded so it snaps open and closed. This light is IPX6 rated for water resistance, not IPX7 or IPX8 like most other high-quality flashlights.

The battery indicator is a tiny multi-color LED in the middle of the button. It turns on when the light is on, plugged in, or for a few seconds after you toggle the rotary switch. Here’s what it means:

StateGreenAmberRed
Plugged InFullN/ACharging
Unplugged>60%30-60%<30%

Competition

Here are some lights in the same class and how they compare.

Skilhunt H150: user-serviceable alternative with a headband

  • more expensive
  • includes a headband and pocket clip
  • similar brightness
  • only one beam
  • optional high CRI LEDs
  • magnetic tailcap
  • magnetic recharging
  • user-serviceable 14500 battery
  • also accepts AAs

Olight Oclip: simpler alternative

  • 25% less expensive
  • no throw channel (red and white flood only)
  • pushbutton only, no rotary switch
  • not as bright
  • silicone port cover

Nitecore Thumb: budget alternative

  • half the price
  • much lower output
  • pivoting head
  • plastic construction
  • lighter weight
  • no magnet
  • Micro-USB instead of USB-C

This section is not comprehensive. If I didn’t include a particular light here, it doesn’t mean it’s bad or doesn’t deserve to be here. I simply cannot list every possible competitor.

Conclusion

Oclip Pro has got a lot of features in a small package. I’m blown away by how well it throws despite the small reflector. The UI is excellent, especially with that rotary toggle switch to choose between flood, throw, and red modes. The built-in battery is unfortunate, but it enables this unique form factor. I’m glad to see a USB-C charging port instead of Olight’s proprietary magnetic system. If you’re into clip lights, this one is excellent and I recommend it.

Thanks to Olight for sending me this light for review!

2 thoughts on “Olight Oclip Pro Review – Feature-Rich Clip Light

  1. Two points, the red LED UI being different makes sense to someone who was Infantry. “The Army Way” would mean you don’t inadvertently start on High White thinking the switch was flipped to red. I’d have to play with it to make my point, I see it as a preventative.

    The non replaceable battery isn’t as problematic in general use, it will likely last longer than the product life cycle on the market. If it lasts five years pro users will have already bought the next generation light, and relegated this to backup/car/child. It also gives modders fodder for upgrades.

    I see this light in the same way microwaves have progressed from warming up coffee or making popcorn to air fryer/convection oven/ etc multimode. While Im not too inclined to cheer multipliers – they are a good collection of tools which don’t work quit as well as a tool roll of dedicated ones – as a general purpose light, it’s a lot handier than carrying a brush fire starting high output, a general work light, and tactical red light/beacon. For EDC, that’s a lot of stuff in your pockets.

    BTW, that clip seems designed to work with MOLLE straps, another hint this light might have originated with military sales in mind. Much less being offered in OD – which is obsolete. Coyote is the new do all color.

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  2. Having purchased this light, it occurred to me it was missing something – and as I handled one I keep in the truck (where did I put that?) I realized what it was.

    Checkering. All the round battery lights have checkering, and the more “tactical” the more ornate it gets. Add cooling fins for high output lights and they are CNC sculptures of cheese grating friction. And yet, if someone is actually engaged in the serious business of tactical activity, a flashlight in the hand is about the last thing they need. Lights are worn on the head, helmet, on web gear or mounted on a weapon – which engages both hands.

    What we are seeing is marketing hype – my first “tactical” light was a Surefire G2 Nitrolon, a bit grippy but hardly “checkered” and most of the better EDC’s I’ve had weren’t, either. I’d say it was an indicator of being non tactical and exploiting what the public doesn’t know.

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