- Pricing & Availability
- What comes in the box?
- Design & Construction
- Size & Measurements
- User Interface
- Emitter & Beam
- Mode Chart
- Driver & Regulation
- Carry & Ergonomics
- Batteries & Charging
Pricing & Availability
Skilhunt sent me this light in exchange for an honest review. Here is the official product page where you can see current pricing.
What comes in the box?
The box is a typical yellow and grey Skilhunt retail box with a peg hanger on top. Inside is a plastic insert that holds the light in place. There’s also a smaller cardboard insert/box inside that holds the accessories. Notably, mine shipped with a little drawstring pouch as well, but it was outside the retail box so I don’t know if that’s included by default or not. The following items are included in the box:
- The light itself
- Battery (inside the light)
- USB A-to-C cable
- User manual
- Wrist lanyard (with a little bendy wire to help install it, nice touch)
- Spare o-rings
- Pocket clip (not installed)
My unboxing experience was not great. The box itself was fine, but the light came with thin white powdery dust all over it. It reminded me of the residue left over when you use too much superglue on something. Fortunately it wiped off super easily and hasn’t come back, but it wasn’t a great first impression. My guess is that it is superglue residue from where the head was glued at the factory.
UPDATE: Skilhunt is aware of the issue and have fixed it! Below is their response and a photo they sent.
“We found this problem and improved it now. It is caused by the rotation or vibration during transportation, the surface material of the blister is rubbed and the powder particles fall off on the flashlight.” – Skilhunt
Design & Construction
The design is vaguely similar to some other EDC size multi-emitter lights like Emisar D4K or Wurkkos TS21, but it’s got some unique touches like the milling on the body tube and the fancy switch boot.
Build quality is excellent. It’s got a great in-hand feel with no sharp edges and high quality anodizing. The tail threads are nicely cut, anodized, and lubricated. They tend to bind sometimes when you get them started or are almost done loosening the tailcap.
Size & Measurements
Lumintop FW3A | Emisar D4V2 | Skilhunt EC300 | Fireflies E07x Pro | Convoy S12
|Maximum Head Diameter||33.0|
|Body Tube Diameter (internal)||22.1|
|Body Tube Diameter (maximum)||28.0|
|Body Tube Diameter (mode)||24.5|
|Ride Height (sticking out of pocket)||14|
|Pocket Clip Space (for pants material)||3.0|
|Pocket Clip Space (at mouth)||~1|
|Pocket Clip Width||7.0|
|Pocket Clip Thickness||0.9|
|Pocket Clip Slot Width||5.4|
|Pocket Clip Slot Diameter||24.0|
|USB Port Width||12.7|
|USB Port Depth||3.1|
|USB Port Height||7.3|
|Included Battery Length||76.1|
|Included Battery Diameter||21.5|
Weight without battery: 80g
Weight with included battery: 154g
This is a well thought out UI. That’s an accomplishment on a light with 4 different LED colors and only one switch. It’s not very conducive to the UI table I usually do, so I’ll try an explain it. Skilhunt includes a handy UI flowchart in the manual that’s probably easier to understand. It sounds a lot more complicated than it is, and I picked it up in a matter of minutes.
The actions below are # of presses followed by a hold (H) or a release (C). So, “1C” is one click and release. “2H” is two clicks but you hold down the last one.
1C from any mode will turn off the light, as it should be.
1C from off turns the light on to the main modes, of which there are three (M1, M2, and H). 1H from on will cycle between those modes.
Turbo is accessed via 2C from on (in the main modes) or off. There are two Turbo levels (T1 & T2) and you switch between them via 1H while in Turbo.
Moonlight & colors are accessed via 1H from off. There are two moonlight levels (L1 & L2) you can switch between via 1H while in moonlight. 2C from moonlight will take you to the color modes and vice versa. You can change the colors in the color mode via 1H. Whatever color or moonlight level you use, the light will remember it and return to it the next time you 1H from off.
Blinky modes are accessed via 3C from off, the main modes, and Turbo, but cannot be accessed from the moon/color group. There are 4 blinky modes: tactical strobe (white light strobes quickly), SOS (white light blinks SOS in morse code), a red slow flashing beacon, and a color flashing beacon (3 quick red flashes, 3 quick green flashes, 3 quick blue flashes, repeat).
Lockout is accessed via 4C from off. While in lockout, the red switch LED will blink periodically to act as a locator beacon, but you can turn that on/off by double clicking. While in lockout, holding the switch will turn the light on to L2 (the brighter moonlight mode) until you let go of the switch. Unlock via 4C and the light will turn on to the last used mode in the moon/color group.
Future Improvements: My only gripe with this UI is that the moonlight modes and color modes are in the same group. I wish the color modes were behing a 2H from off action or something, to separate them from moonlight. Multiple brightness levels would be nice too, as they can be a bit bright for some situations. 2C while in a given color could cycle to the next color, and 1H while in a given color could cycle between 2-3 modes (including a very dim mode). Other than that minor thing, this UI is excellent. Skilhunt did a fantastic job here.
Emitter & Beam
EC300 has several emitters hidden under a Carclo frosted quad optic. I’m not sure if it’s a 10623 or 10624, but it’s interchangeable with Emisar D4V2/DW4/D4K & Noctigon KR4 optics. The main emitters are four Luminus SST20’s, available in a low CRI 6500K variety or a high CRI 4000K variety (that’s what I got). There’s also an RGB emitter right in the center. The bezel was pretty tight from the factory, but I was able to remove it with a grippy glove.
The beam is floody and diffused with no defined hotspot or spill. Great for close up EDC tasks but it won’t reach very far.
In the beamshots above, the trees where I’m aiming the hotspot are 175M away. In the beamshots below, the park bench where I’m aiming the hotspot is 42M away.
Aux LED’s: There’s a secondary RGB LED right in the center under the optic. You may have seen RGB auxiliary LED’s on some enthusiast lights before like a D4V2, but this is different. These are an order of magnitude brighter so you can actually use them to see. They’re not as bright as dedicated colored LED’s on a dedicated main channel though. The “beam” pattern is a little bit odd because of the placement of the LED but you don’t notice unless you’re white-wall-hunting. These are good for close up/indoor use, not exploration outdoors nor astronomy.
Disclaimer: All of my measurements are taken at turn-on. Lumen measurements were taken on a Texas Ace 3.5″ Lumen Tube. A candela measurement was taken at 10 meters with an Opple Light Master III on the highest brightness, and other candela figures were calculated relative to that. CRI, CCT, & DUV data was taken for each mode from a few feet away at the center of the hotspot with the Opple Light Master and Waveform DUV Calculator. Runtime tests were performed with the Ceilingbounce app on my smartphone. All of these tests were performed with a fully charged included battery unless otherwise specified. I cannot measure moonlight directly, so moonlight readings are calculated based on the brightness relative to the next-lowest mode. None of this is professional equipment, so take all of these measurements with a grain of salt.
Above are the official specs, followed by my own measurements below. The official specs are undoubtedly for the cool white, low CRI emitter option. Lower output is expected since I have the warm(er) white, high CRI version.
|Level||Lumens||Candela||Throw (Meters)||CRI (Ra)||Color Temp. (K)||DUV (Tint)|
Mode Spacing: is good. There are no weirdly small or large jumps.
Performance: is great. T1 lasts for one minute before a stepdown to 500 lumens for over two hours, which is an impressive sustained output for a light this size with high CRI emitters. T2 has a small stepdown after 3 minutes. All the other modes are very stable. I believe the stepdown are timed rather than temperature controlled.
LVP: There’s a low voltage stepdown and the switch turns red to to warn the user the battery is low. When the battery is empty, there is a low voltage shutoff so unprotected cells are safe to use here.
Driver & Regulation
The body tube is glued to the head and there’s a shroud covering the driver board so I was unable to get to it. I asked my Skilhunt marketing rep what kind of driver they used, but they didn’t know. My guess is it’s a buck driver, but don’t quote me on that.
Regulation is typical. The highest two modes are affected by battery voltage but the others aren’t significantly affected.
Note: All regulation measurements are taken at turn-on so they do not reflect any thermal or low voltage stepdowns that may occur. A value of 0 indicates low voltage shutoff immediately upon activation.
PWM: No PWM is visible to my eyes, nor audible to my ears. My camera can pick up a little bit of PWM on the moonlight levels, but you won’t be using those for photography or anything so it’s not a problem.
Parasitic Drain: 50 microamps. That will take 11 years to drain the included batteries. Note: using the blinking indicator during lockout mode will increase drain
EC300 has an electronic side switch. It’s got red and blue indicator LED’s underneath and a cool design printed & molded into it. It’s easy to press with the tip or first knuckle of my thumb, but locating it in the dark is hit-or-miss. The charging port feels very similar and I found myself accidentally trying to click the charging port in the dark. If you are pulling it directly from your pocket though, that won’t be a problem since you can index off the pocket clip.
The indicator LED’s will light up for a few seconds after you turn the light on to indicate battery status. Blue means good to go, constant red means charge soon, blinking red means charge immediately.
Carry & Ergonomics
Ergonomics are great. It’s just big enough to get a really nice grip on, but small enough to still be pocketable. It’s markedly more ergonomic than 18650 quads like an Emisar D4V2. It works well in a forward grip or a pencil grip.
There are two carry methods included in the box: a wrist lanyard that’s fine, and a bidirectional pocket clip that I have thoughs about. Notably, it’s exactly the same clip that’s included on many Sofirn & Wurkkos flashlights (IF22A, TS21, HD20, etc). It’s really good, and that’s high praise considering how picky I am about pocket clips. It’s got enough ramp to be able to get over my pocket without any help, enough space in the loops for pocket material or a hat brim, it carries deep enough, and it doesn’t land near the rubber flap.
Tailstanding works great and is quite stable. I missed having a magnet in the tailcap though. This light feels like it should have a magnet. I even found myself holding it up to metal surfaces periodically, expecting it to stick, and it didn’t. If I made this my EDC light, I’d glue a magnet into the recess in the tailcap. Speaking of that recess, I don’t understand why it’s there nor why there’s a nub in the middle. Just cut all that off, make it flat, and add a magnet.
Batteries & Charging
EC300 uses a single 21700 battery and Skilhunt includes a suitable, 5000mah, protected, button top cell. Flat top unprotected 21700’s work fine but the light will turn off if shaken hard enough. Unprotected flat top 18650’s are too short to work.
Charging is facilitated by a USB-C port on the head directly opposite the button. C-to-C and A-to-C charging both work fine, and it can even be used as a powerbank. The light is fully functional when plugged in with a battery, but it gets a little weird when plugged in without a battery. Turbo doesn’t work, but the moonlight/colors mode group works fine. The medium modes group works fine unless you change the mode. Once you change the mode, the medium group will stop working until you put a battery in.
Here are some lights in the same class and how they compare.
Emisar D4K: very similar size and shape, same optics, huge variety of emitter options, RGB aux LED’s that are much dimmer than EC300’s but are always on, magnetic tailcap, no integrated charging, no battery included, multiple driver options, can get brighter than EC300 depending on options
Jetbeam RRT03: significantly smaller, 18350 battery, tailswitch & rotary user interface, more expensive, has similar RGB secondary emitters like EC300
This section is not comprehensive. If I didn’t include a particular light here, it doesn’t mean it’s bad or doesn’t deserve to be here. I simply cannot list every possible competitor.
This is an excellent large EDC light with colored secondaries. Skilhunt nailed the size, shape, charging, beam, clip, and UI. It genuinely surpassed my expectations and I enjoyed carrying it! If you’re looking for a larger EDC with usable colorful secondary emitters, this is a fantastic option.
Thanks to Skilhunt for sending me this light for review!