Contents

• Pricing & Availability
• What comes in the box?
• Design & Construction
• Size & Measurements
• User Interface
• Emitter & Beam
• Mode Chart
• Runtime
• Driver & Regulation
• Switch
• Carry & Ergonomics
• Batteries & Charging
• Competition
• Conclusion

Pricing & Availability

Olight sent me this light in exchange for making an honest review of it and including some information about their upcoming sale. Here are the official product page and temporary bundle page where you can see current pricing (25% off during the May sale). Those are affiliate links that let them know I sent you, but I do not earn any commission. Code “tgreviews” is 10% off most items that aren’t otherwise on sale. All customers will get a free red Gober during the May sale as well.

What comes in the box?

The box is one of Olights’ high-quality boxes made of dense cardboard and with a magnetic closure. It’s really an unboxing experience with multiple layers (magnet, quick-start flap, foam light holder, and interior boxes). This is the kind of box that impresses you when you open it and makes the product feel premium. I’m sure it adds some cost to the light though. The following items are included in the box:

• The light itself
• Battery (inside the light)
• Pocket clip
• Headband
• Magnetic charging cable
• Lanyard with installation tool
• User manual

Design & Construction

It’s a typical layout for a right-angle light. The button is on the end and the electronics sit between the battery and the button (unlike a few where the electronics sit in front of the battery, overhanging). Olight did a good job making it look good too. That’s nice because most right-angle lights like this look a little weird.

Build quality is excellent, as usual from Olight. The anodizing feels great and is well applied. It’ll show wear from repeated installation/removal of the pocket clip though. It’s got a smoothness to it that I’ve only seen on lights from premium brands like Olight, Acebeam, Fenix, etc. The threads are small but they’re square-cut, anodized, and lubricated. Mechanical lockout works great on this model, unlike many of Olight’s other recent models.

Size & Measurements

Cyansky HS6R | Skilhunt H300 | Olight Perun 2 | Olight Warrior 3S | Sofirn IF23

Measurement	Measured (mm)
Bezel Diameter	23.0
Head Width	27.1
Maximum Head Diameter	32.3
Length	120.8
Switch Diameter	16.3
Switch Proudness	0
Lens Diameter	U/M
Lens Thickness	U/M
TIR Diameter	U/M
TIR Height	U/M
MCPCB Size	U/M
Body Tube Diameter (internal)	22.4
Body Tube Diameter (maximum)	26.0
Body Tube Diameter (mode)	26.0
Body Tube & Tailcap Length	83.0
Ride Height (sticking out of pocket)	~9.3
Pocket Clip Space (for pants material)	3.3
Pocket Clip Space (at mouth)	3.8
Pocket Clip Width	7.1
Pocket Clip Thickness	0.9
Pocket Clip Slot Width	4.4
Pocket Clip Slot Diameter	24.5
Driver Diameter	U/M
Included Battery Length	75.2
Included Battery Diameter	21.4

Weight with battery & pocket clip: 160g
Weight with battery & headband: 213g

User Interface

Olight has their UI pretty nailed down. It’s advanced enough to have all the functions most people will want but it’s still simple enough that you can hand it to someone and they can figure it out without much explanation. I do have a few minor critiques though.

The actions are # of presses followed by a hold (H) or a release (C). So, “1C” is one click and release. “2H” is two clicks but you hold down the last one.

State	Action	Result
Off	1C	On (mode memory)
Off	1H (short)	“Moonlight” (memorized)
Off	1H (long)	Lockout
Lockout	1C	Blink “Moonlight” (to indicate lockout mode)
Lockout	1H (long)	Unlock (to “Moonlight”)
Any	3C	SOS
Any	2C	Turbo (memorized as High)
Turbo	2C	Return to previous mode (except High)
On	1H	Cycle mode (Low-Med-High, memorized)
On	2H	Enable timer (and cycle between 3/9 minutes)

What they got right:

• 1C on/off and 1H to cycle modes (This is the basis of most good UIs.)
• Dedicated shortcuts for Moonlight, Turbo, and Blinkies (SOS) that provide quick access. It’s great that they are shared with most other manufacturers so there’s no learning curve when switching lights.
• 5 brightness levels (having more is cumbersome)
• The timer function is handy. It’s also well hidden, so casual users won’t stumble upon it and be confused.
• 2C from Turbo returns to the previously used mode (mostly). That’s really handy for when you want to quickly blast Turbo and then go back to the mode you were using. High-Turbo-back will go to Medium mode instead of High though, which is inconsistent and annoying.

What they got wrong:

• Moonlight is memorized and it should not be. There’s a dedicated shortcut for Moonlight so you can always access it when needed without relying on memory. As it is, accessing moonlight will override your memorized mode.
• 2C from Turbo doesn’t always go back to the previous mode. If the last mode was High, it will go from Turbo down to Medium. Not a big deal but it’s weird and doesn’t make sense.
• Turbo is memorized as High, but it shouldn’t be memorized at all. There’s a dedicated shortcut for Turbo so you can always access it when needed without relying on memory. As it is, accessing Turbo will override your memorized mode. The fact that Turbo is memorized as High mode is particularly strange and has no benefit that I can think of.
• Lockout: 1H to escape lockout is too easily done by accident when a light is in a bag or pocket. Lockout should require multiple clicks to unlock. Many other manufacturers are using 4 clicks to unlock, and that works well. When you click the switch in lockout there’s no super clear blink indicator that you’re in lockout mode, it just doesn’t stay on after you click the switch. There’s already a vibration motor in the light so it would be cool if it did a little buzz when you try and turn it on in lockout mode.

Emitter & Beam

Perun 2 uses a single Cree XHP50.2 LED under a custom plastic TIR optic. This particular bin of XHP50.2 does not have great color properties, but it’s a great choice for high efficiency and high brightness. I believe it’s the 6V/12V variety, not the 3V version, but I can’t confirm that. It shouldn’t be too difficult to swap in a high-CRI bin of XHP50.3 in a warmer temperature for some nicer colors. It’d be nice if Olight offered that as an option from the factory.

The beam has a wide, flat hotspot with edges that disappear unless you’re looking for them. Around the hotspot is spill that fades as it gets further from the center of the beam. It’s a nice beam for a headlamp and there aren’t any artifacts. There’s lots of tint shift from the hotspot to the spill though.

In the beamshots below, the basketball goal to the right of the hotspot is 39M away and the power pole in the center is 185M away.

Mode Chart

Disclaimer: All of my measurements are taken at turn-on. Lumen measurements on the 3 lowest modes were taken on a Texas Ace 3.5″ Lumen Tube. Lumen measurements on the 2 highest modes were calculated based on the lux difference from medium mode because the proximity sensor prevents me from measuring them directly. A candela measurement was taken at 10 meters with an Opple Light Master III on the highest brightness, and other candela figures were calculated relative to that. CRI, CCT, & DUV data were taken for each mode from a few feet away at the center of the hotspot with the Opple Light Master and Waveform DUV Calculator. Runtime tests were performed with the Ceilingbounce app on my smartphone. All of these tests were performed with a fully charged included battery unless otherwise specified. None of this is professional equipment, so take all of these measurements with a grain of salt.

Above are the official specs, followed by my own measurements below.

Level	Lumens	Candela	Throw (Meters)	CRI (Ra)	Color Temp. (K)	DUV (Tint)
Turbo	2700	8000	179	63	5510	0.0110
High	530	1570	79	65	5270	0.0108
Medium	130	385	39	64	5190	0.0120
Low	30	89	19	64	5150	0.0123
“Moonlight”	4	12	7	63	5160	0.0131

Moonlight: I find that ~0.5lm is just right for moonlight. 0.1lm and below is too dim to be useful and above 1.0lm is too bright for some situations. This light does not have a true moonlight mode, and that’s disappointing.

Mode Spacing: Isn’t bad, but Medium and High should both be brighter. High should be around 800lm (the light’s highest sustainable output) and Medium should probably be around 200lm.

Runtime

Performance: This light performs extremely well with excellent output on Turbo and High modes with respectable runtime too. The sustained output of ~800lm is nearly best-in-class. Runtime on Medium mode is tremendous, offering multiple nights’ worth of usable brightness.

Thermal regulation: The Turbo Cooled test I did appears to perform marginally better than the Turbo test, but that could just be some margin of error in my testing on this particular light since I couldn’t test in my normal runtime box due to the proximity sensor. Based on that and Olight’s history, I believe there is just a timed step-down from Turbo with no active thermal management. That means the light will perform very consistently but may also overheat in hot weather or leave some performance on the table in cold weather.

LVP (Low Voltage Protection): Perun 2 relies on the protected battery to shut off before the cell is over-discharged. There is no LVP built into the light itself. The light will vibrate every 30 seconds when the battery is low to warn the user. That’s neat, but it seems unnecessarily complex when the main LED could briefly blink off periodically instead.

Driver & Regulation

I believe Perun 2 uses a 6V boost driver. I wasn’t able to get a good photo either because the driver is covered. Generally, Olight uses Buck or Boost drivers that are very efficient and well-regulated.

Regulation: I was unable to do regulation testing because I could not disable the proximity sensor. It activated any time I put the light near my lumen tube. Historically Olights have had good regulation and I have no reason to believe Perun 2 is any different.

Note: All regulation measurements are taken at turn-on so they do not reflect any thermal or low voltage step-downs that may occur. A value of 0 indicates low voltage shutoff immediately upon activation.

PWM: No PWM is visible to my eyes nor audible to my ears, but my phone camera was able to detect some sort of flickering on the lowest 2 modes.

Parasitic Drain: 30 microamps. That will take 15 years to drain the included battery.

Switch

The switch is large, flat, and located on the head of the light. It’s on the end instead of the side (like Skilhunt H300, for example). That’s better for handheld use but not as good for headlamp use. The switch has a rubber boot with a big power icon on it and it sits angled toward the back of the light. That angle prevents the light from being able to head-stand. It’s worth noting that it’s not backlit, which is unusual for Olight. It’s a good switch and I have no complaints.

Carry & Ergonomics

Perun 3’s handheld ergonomics are fairly good. It’s large enough to pistol-grip and use your thumb to actuate the switch. Using your index finger to actuate the switch also works well.

Perun 2 is a little large for daily carry but it carries well for its size. The pocket clip lets it carry deep enough and it’s very secure in the pocket. It’s still easy enough to remove from the pocket when needed though. The placement of the clip also lets you hook the light onto the outside of a shirt collar, pocket, or strap for hands-free light. It’s bidirectional because it’s the same clip that comes on a couple other models, but that particular feature of the clip is useless on this light.

Headband: This is a pretty heavy light to wear on your head. It’s doable, but only if you aren’t doing something high-impact like running. It’s also a little imbalanced because the light isn’t centered in the headband. Again it’s doable, but I would not choose this as my main headlamp.

The headband is a standard-style silicone-loop headband that comes with most right-angle lights. The silicone loops hold the light in place and there’s a non-removable top strap. Normally I dislike these because they’re difficult to install/remove the light and I don’t like top straps. In this case, the top strap is absolutely essential because the light is so heavy, and Olight is using a higher-quality silicone that makes it fairly easy to install/remove the light. They also included some little reflective bits on the straps for visibility.

Tailstand: works fine and is plenty stable, especially on ferrous surfaces.

Magnet: is very strong. More than capable of holding the light up on a vertical surface. The charging contacts are also on the tailcap so if you work around lots of ferrous metal shavings, this may not be the right light for you.

Batteries & Charging

Perun 2 uses a proprietary 21700 battery with an extra negative terminal on the traditionally positive end of the light. A couple other companies (Thrunite and Acebeam) have begun to adopt the same style of battery in a few models, but I don’t know if they’re interchangeable. Perun 2 will only accept this proprietary cell. No other 21700 batteries will work at all. Replacements are very expensive at $27 each (a basic unprotected flat top 21700 is usually around $5).

It’s rated at 4000mah, which is lower than the 5000mah cell Olight includes with other models. I suspect that’s because Perun 2 may require more current than other Olight models using their 5000mah cell. This proprietary cell may or may not work with other lights or chargers. Its proprietary positive end with a raised plastic ring between the contacts makes it picky. It’s also longer than a standard 21700 cell.

Charging is facilitated by Olight’s proprietary magnetic tailcap charging system. A USB-A charging cable is included that magnetically snaps onto the tailcap of the light. The puck has an LED indicator that glows red while charging and glows green when not charging. It’s easy to see but it’s a little too bright to have on your nightstand at night.

This magnetic charging system is tremendously convenient if you have a designated spot where you always charge your light because you can just wave the light near the charger and it will connect. When you’re finished, just grab the light and pull. It’s not very convenient if you like to charge in different locations or on the go because you have to have that proprietary charging cable. The light is fully functional and usable while charging.

Interestingly, you can charge the battery with the head removed from the light, though I don’t recommend it.

Proximity Sensor

Perun 2 includes a proximity sensor at the front of the light (the little black cutout). On Turbo or High modes, it will dim the light if it detects the light is close to an object. If that lasts for one minute, the light will turn itself off. This should prevent any damage from the light turning on by accident and potentially burning/melting whatever is in front of it. It probably won’t prevent you from accidentally shining the light at yourself in a mirror though.

I expected for this sensor to be annoying, but it was only a problem while I was doing runtime/output testing. I shine the light right into a white PVC tube to measure lumens, and that activates the sensor. During my normal use of the light for utility tasks and as a headlamp, the sensor never activated (that I know of) so it did its job well.

The sensitivity of the sensor varies depending on the surface the light is shining at. When shone at a black piece of furniture, it would activate about 3″ away. When shone at a white wall, it would activate about 10″ away. When shone at a mirror, it would activate about 15″ away. This makes me suspect it’s actually a lux sensor, not a proximity sensor, but I’m not certain. All those distances are very close, so the sensor is unlikely to activate while wearing Perun 2 as a headlamp.

Unlike other Olight models with this sensor, it cannot be overridden in Perun 2. Unfortunately, that means I was unable to do my typical regulation testing, and it made output testing difficult.

Competition

Here are some lights in the same class and how they compare.

Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Max: similar size, better headband, similar magnetic charging (but cannot be used while charging), available in two color temperatures, weird UI, brighter turbo, lower moonlight, no vibration feature, accepts standard 21700 batteries, switch on the side (better for headlamp use, worse for handheld use), more expensive, no proximity sensor

Skilhunt H300: less runtime due to smaller standard 18650 battery, similar brightness (with the same LED), several LED options (including a lovely Nichia 144A), lighter weight, best-in-class headband, similar magnetic charging, no proximity sensor, available with TIR optic or reflector

Acebeam H30: higher max brightness, variety of secondary LED options, two buttons, traditional headlamp instead of right angle light, standard USB-C charging (protected by o-ring), accepts standard 21700 batteries, brighter moonlight, more expensive

This section is not comprehensive. If I didn’t include a particular light here, it doesn’t mean it’s bad or doesn’t deserve to be here. I simply cannot list every possible competitor.

Conclusion

This is a big right-angle light. It’s capable of exceptional brightness and runtime with great efficiency. It’s easy to use with a straightforward UI and a big button. Magnetic charging is as convenient as it gets. The headlamp experience and LED color properties aren’t great though, so I wouldn’t buy this as your main headlamp. If you’re looking for a powerhouse right-angle light that can flex into a headlamp role from time to time, this is a great option.

Thanks to Olight for sending me this light for review!