- Pricing & Availability
- What comes in the box?
- Design & Construction
- Size & Measurements
- User Interface
- Mode Chart
- Driver & Regulation
- Emitter & Beam
- Carry & Ergonomics
- Batteries & Charging
Pricing & Availability
Reddit user and expert modder u/Adair21 lent me this light in exchange for an honest review. Here is the official product page where you can see current pricing. It’s also apparently available from Walmart? Adair also sells these lights with updated firmware, some lovely Nichia E21A emitters, and even RGB aux LED’s, so give him a shout if you want the ultimate TS10.
What comes in the box?
The box is pretty basic. The following items are included in the box:
- The flashlight itself
- A battery (installed in the light)
- Pocket clip
- Spare o-rings
- User manual
Design & Construction
I think Wurkkos did a pretty good job with the design of this light. They really kept it small and simple, but it doesn’t look generic either.
Build quality is typical from Wurkkos. It’s not amazing but it’s fairly good, and certainly impressive for the price. The anodizing is glossy and evenly applied. The threads are smooth, but the can be just a bit tricky to start. They’re un-anodized too so they get grimy really fast.
Size & Measurements
Noctigon KR1 | Emisar D4V2 | Acebeam E70 Mini | Lumintop FW3X | Wurkkos TS10
As you can see, TS10 is miniscule. I’ve had single AAA lights larger than this. The Lumintop FW3X next to it is my typical EDC light at the time of writing and that’s about the right size for pants pocket carry for me. TS10 is sized about right for watch pocket carry without a pocket clip, but it’s too small for me to carry as a primary EDC light.
|Maximum Head Diameter||21.0|
|Body Tube Diameter (internal)||14.8|
|Body Tube Diameter (maximum)||21.0|
|Body Tube Diameter (minimum)||18.0|
|Ride Height (sticking out of pocket)||14.0|
|Pocket Clip Space (for pants material)||1.6|
|Pocket Clip Space (at mouth)||~1.5|
|Pocket Clip Width||6.0|
|Pocket Clip Thickness||0.7|
|Pocket Clip Slot Width||4.1|
|Pocket Clip Slot Diameter||19.5|
|Included Battery Length||50.6|
|Included Battery Diameter||14.1|
Weight without battery: 29g
Included battery weight: 19g
Pocket clip weight: 3g
TS10 includes the nerdiest firmware: Anduril 2. It’s a highly-configurable and feature-rich UI that’s not for the faint of heart, but it’s a joy to use if you know it well. I’m not remotely prepared to do a whole UI breakdown, so I’ll just direct you to the official Anduril 2 Manual which has a UI table at the bottom. With that said, here are a few of my favorite features. Most of these are highly configurable or optional, so if you don’t like one, you can probably disable or change it!
- Momentary Turbo
- Adjustable Stepped Modes
- Manual Mode Memory option
- Shortcuts to & from Moonlight, Turbo, and High
- Battery voltage readout
The best LVP behavior in the industry(not so much on this model, read on)
Mine came with firmware version 2022-02-08-0614. At the time of writing, two bugs have been found in TS10’s firmware. First is the aux LED’s stay on when the main LED’s are on. That’s really not a problem, it’s just not how it’s supposed to work. The other problem is much worse: the aux LED’s have no low voltage protection.
Those issues have been fixed in a newer firmware hex but I don’t know when that updated firmware will make it onto new TS10’s actually being sold. I recommend waiting for that before buying. That newer firmware also lowers the moonlight level from ~0.1lm to ~0.01lm. To update you’ll need a 3-Pin pogo adapter and USB board thing, then follow this tutorial post.
It’s worth noting that there are no bottom, mid, or top of ramp blinks like there are on some other lights because this firmware has that disabled.
Disclaimer: All of my measurements are taken at turn-on. Lumen measurements were taken on a Texas Ace 3.5″ Lumen Tube. A candela measurement was taken at 10 meters with an Opple Light Master III on the highest brightness, and other candela figures were calculated relative to that. CRI, CCT, & DUV data was taken for each mode from a few feet away at the center of the hotspot with the Opple Light Master and Waveform DUV Calculator. Runtime tests were performed with the Ceilingbounce app on my smartphone. All of these tests were performed with a fully charged included battery unless otherwise specified. I cannot measure moonlight directly, so moonlight readings are calculated based on the brightness relative to the next-lowest mode. None of this is professional equipment, so take all of these measurements with a grain of salt.
Above are the official specs, followed by my own measurements below. I changed the ramp settings on my sample to suit my liking, so only the highest mode and the lowest mode should be compared.
|Level||Lumens||Candela||Throw (Meters)||CRI (Ra)||Color Temp. (K)||DUV (Tint)|
Why those modes? Anduril 2 has 150 levels, so doing measurements and tests for each mode is virtually impossible. I’ve got this light set up how I like it with 5 levels. I use the stepped ramp with 4 steps, plus Turbo. Bottom of ramp is level 1 and top of ramp is level 97. I chose level 97 for the top of ramp so that the middle mode would be right at level 65, which is the highest regulated level.
Mode Spacing / Ramp Speed: is fine. There are no weirdly small or large jumps. Ramping speed is consistent throughout the ramp.
Note: Theoretically this light should not need thermal calibration because the MCU is supposed to come pre-calibrated. Just in case I calibrated it before any testing. All tests were run with the thermal ceiling left at the default 45C.
Performance: Turbo steps down very very quickly. High lasts a couple minutes before stepdown though which isn’t bad. Stable output is a little over 100 lumens. Running at level 65 or below will provide perfectly flat output thanks to the regulator chip that kicks.
Thermal regulation: is present and works well. Anduril has arguably the most sophisticated thermal regulation available.
LVP: is complicated. It works exactly as intended on the main emitters. There are big, obvious warning drops when the cell reaches 3 volts, and then they shut off when the cell reaches ~2.7V or so. However, the aux LED’s never shut off and will continue to run until the cell is over-discharged sooner or later.
Driver & Regulation
TS10 includes a FET+1 driver. That means that at level 65 and below, current is regulated by an ANC7135 chip. Levels 66-149 are all handled by a FET with some PWM to limit brightness, and level 150 is full direct drive. This is not a particularly sophisticated driver but it works fine here and keeps the price point low.
One of the nice things about this driver is that it’s using a newer ATTiny1616 MCU, which has a pre-calibrated thermal sensor and three-wire programming (instead of 6-8 wires on previous models). Wurkkos included flashing pads too, which is fantastic! Not only that, they’re in the same layout as Sofirn SP10 Pro, Sofirn SC31 Pro, and Sofirn LT1 Mini so you can use the same pogo adapter for all of those (and hopefully for future models with ATTiny1616 MCU’s as well).
At levels 65 and below, current is regulated by the ANC7135 chip so brightness is unaffected by battery voltage (charge level). Above level 65 it’s FET driven so brightness will be heavily impacted by battery voltage.
Note: All regulation measurements are taken at turn-on so they do not reflect any thermal or low voltage stepdowns that may occur. A value of 0 indicates low voltage shutoff immediately upon activation.
PWM: No PWM is visible to my eyes or camera nor audible to my ears. I did some testing on each mode with an Opple Light Master III and found PWM on Moon (level 1), Low (level 33), and High (level 97). There was no PWM on Medium (level 65) because that’s the max regulated level and the 7135 chip is running at max current. There’s no PWM on Turbo because that’s full direct drive.
|Aux Level||Parasitic Drain||Time to Drain Included Battery|
Emitter & Beam
TS10 uses three “90 CRI CSP LED’s” which isn’t super descriptive. I don’t know exactly what the make & model of these LED’s are but my best guess is “LatticePower CSP2323 4W”. They do meet (and exceed) the 90CRI claim though, which is good. These are not typical 3535 footprint emitters so you can’t reflow most emitters onto TS10’s MCPCB. The only replacement emitters I’m aware of that will fit are Nichia E21A’s. Unfortunately, I was unable to remove the bezel so I couldn’t get any photos of the MCPCB.
The hotspot is wide, even, and fades out at the edges. It looks nice and is well suited for close up EDC tasks. It won’t throw very far though.
In the beamshots above, the trees where I’m aiming the hotspot are 175M away. In the beamshots below, the park bench where I’m aiming the hotspot is 42M away.
Aux LED’s: TS10 includes secondary aux LED’s, which are probably its biggest distinction from Lumintop FWAA. They’re single-color but you can choose from a few different colors when you order. On high mode they’re very bright, problematically bright. They’re bright enough to be distracting rather than cool-looking. You can see a brightness comparison below.
They also will drain the battery in 3 days and then keep draining it because they aren’t governed by LVP on this light. I recommend setting them to low mode which is dim, but can still be seen in a dark room and takes 5 months to drain the battery instead of 3 days.
The switch is pretty good. It’s an electronic tail switch and it clicks surprisingly well, better than the Lumintop FW series or Noctigon KR series. It’s tactile too and I never found myself mis-clicking. Nicely done, Wurkkos. Usually we have to disassemble and modify tail e-switches to get them to work this well.
In the second and third photos above, you can see that TS10 has a dual body tube design. The inner tube carries power while the outer tube carries the switch signal. In theory because the outer un-anodized threads aren’t carrying power, mechanical lockout should work by loosening the head. Unfortunately that’s not entirely the case.
Mechanical lockout will stop any parasitic drain and turn off the aux LED’s, but it won’t prevent the light from turning on due to how the switch is connected. If you press the switch while it’s locked out, it’ll start to strobe and will factory reset if you hold the switch down long enough.
Carry & Ergonomics
Ergonomically TS10 is pretty good. There’s no rough knurling so it’s comfortable to hold onto. The body tube tapers down smoothly to provide a nice grip area for a cigar grip. That’s the grip I found myself using most with TS10, since it’s too small for a reverse or forward grip.
TS10 includes a lanyard, but the only place to attach it is to the pocket clip, and that pocket clip stinks.
Wurkkos re-used the one from Sofirn SC21, and it’s still got the same problems I mentioned in that review. It’s very short so it’s not springy enough. The loops are too small so there isn’t enough space for pants material or a hat. There’s no ramp at the mouth for bezel-down carry so you can’t just slip it into your pocket. It doesn’t carry deep enough for how small this light is. I don’t recommend using this clip for carry. Fortunately, r/flashlight has already taken to finding alternative clips and there are a couple of standout options shown below.
The first photo (source) shows an Olight Baton 3 clip installed on TS10. It’s longer so it has more spring to it, it carries slightly deeper, and the loops are a little wider so you might actually be able to fit pants material or a hat brim in the clip properly. The second photo (source) shows a Lumintop E05C clip on a TS10. It carries significantly deeper, has a wider loop for pants material, and it appears to have a little bit of ramp too.
Tailstand: works great and is very stable.
Batteries & Charging
TS10 includes one unprotected button top 14500 cell. AA’s will not work. Protected cells won’t work either because they don’t fit, but I imagine unprotected flat tops will work fine.
No charging solution is included. Be careful what charger you use with the included 14500 cell because many chargers may charge it at an unsafe speed. I like to charge it at 0.5A or less.
Here are some lights in the same class and how they compare.
Lumintop FWAA: extremely similar to TS10 with these exceptions: only one body color, normal 3535 emitters, no aux LED’s, better clip, also available in fancy metals, more expensive
Sofirn SP10 Pro: not as bright, single LED & reflector, runs on one 14500 or AA, great driver, very dim moonlight, same bad pocket clip, same good aftermarket clip options, side switch instead of tail switch, no aux LED’s, optional magnetic tailcap
This section is not comprehensive. If I didn’t include a particular light here, it doesn’t mean it’s bad or doesn’t deserve to be here. I simply cannot list every possible competitor.
TS10 is a fun little light that’s perfect for watch pocket carry. It’s great for when you’re carrying another primary light that doesn’t have a lot of bells and whistles, but you still want something high CRI with all the fun Anduril features. I would just wait a bit before buying one until they get some of the firmware kinks worked out, or buy one that’s already had the firmware updated by a 3rd party.
Thanks to u/Adair21 for sending me this light for review!