- Pricing & Availability
- What comes in the box?
- Design & Construction
- Size & Measurements
- User Interface
- Mode Chart
- Driver & Regulation
- Emitter & Beam
- Carry & Ergonomics
- Batteries & Charging
Pricing & Availability
I purchased this light with my own money from the official product page on intl-outdoor.com (the manufacturer’s website). It’s also available from jlhawaii808.com if you’re in the US and want fast shipping, but it’s got a markup and the selection is limited.
At the time of writing, D1(V2) starts at under $40 which is a great price point. I chose the XPL-HI 4000K emitter option for mine.
What comes in the box?
It comes in a typical Emisar/Noctigon cardboard box with a foam insert. The following items are included in the box:
- The light itself
- Spare o-rings
- Any other accessories you opt into (pocket clip, extra tailcap, 18350 tube, etc)
Design & Construction
The design is extremely similar to the original D1, but with some updated styling. It includes the newer textured D4V2 body tube, the newer magnetic D4V2 tailcap, a stylish stainless steel bezel, some anti-roll cuts on the head, and a threaded switch retaining ring.
Build quality is slightly below average for Emisar/Noctigon products. My sample has sqeaky threads on the head end and there’s a weird spot on the tail threads where anodizing is missing. Neither of those affect use and the light is otherwise excellent.
Size & Measurements
|Maximum Head Diameter||35.0|
|Reflector Hole Diameter||7.0|
|Body Tube Diameter (internal)||19.0|
|Body Tube Diameter (maximum)||25.0|
|Body Tube Diameter (mode)||24.0|
|Body Tube Length||69.1|
|Ride Height (sticking out of pocket)||2.8|
|Pocket Clip Space (for pants material)||3.0|
|Pocket Clip Space (at mouth)||4.25|
|Pocket Clip Width||7.1|
|Pocket Clip Thickness||1.0|
|Pocket Clip Slot Width||3.0|
|Pocket Clip Slot Diameter||22.5|
Weight with clip & without battery: 104g
Weight with clip & Molicel M35A battery: 149g
D1(V2) includes the nerdiest firmware: Anduril 2. It’s a highly-configurable and feature-rich UI that’s not for the faint of heart, but it’s a joy to use if you know it well. I’m not remotely prepared to do a whole UI breakdown, so I’ll just direct you to the official Anduril 2 Manual which has a UI table at the bottom. With that said, here are a few of my favorite features. Most of these are highly configurable or optional, so if you don’t like one, you can probably disable or change it!
- Momentary Turbo
- Adjustable Stepped Modes
- Manual Mode Memory option
- Shortcuts to & from Moonlight, Turbo, and High
- Battery voltage readout
- The best LVP behavior in the industry
Mine came with Anduril 2 out of the box, but it was an older version from before Toykeeper made adjustments to the ramp speed. As a result the ramp speed/mode spacing was atrocious and I immediately updated it to the latest firmware.
Disclaimer: All of my measurements are taken at turn-on. Lumen measurements were taken on a Texas Ace 3.5″ Lumen Tube. A candela measurement was taken at 10 meters with an Opple Light Master III on the highest brightness, and other candela figures were calculated relative to that. CRI, CCT, & DUV data was taken for each mode from a few feet away at the center of the hotspot with the Opple Light Master and Waveform DUV Calculator. Runtime tests were performed with the Ceilingbounce app on my smartphone. All of these tests were performed with a fully charged Molicel M35A battery unless otherwise specified. I cannot measure moonlight directly, so moonlight readings are calculated based on the brightness relative to the next-lowest mode. None of this is professional equipment, so take all of these measurements with a grain of salt.
Above are the official specs, followed by my own measurements below.
|Level||Lumens||Candela||Throw (Meters)||CRI (Ra)||Color Temp. (K)||DUV (Tint)|
Why those modes? Anduril 2 has 150 levels, so doing measurements and tests for each mode is virtually impossible. I’ve got this light set up how I like it with 5 levels. Bottom of ramp is level 1 and top of ramp is level 120. I’ve set up the stepped ramp with 4 steps so, with turbo added, I get the 5 modes I like.
Mode Spacing / Ramp Speed: is good. There are no weirdly small or large jumps, but that’s only after I updated to the latest firmware. If you don’t have a flashing kit, I recommend emailing firstname.lastname@example.org after you order. Mention your order number and request that your light be updated with the latest firmware before it ships.
Note: Before doing any testing I calibrated the thermal sensor. All tests were run with the thermal ceiling at the default 45C.
Performance: is fine. It’s not going to blow you away but it’s good. Sustained output is ~250-300lm in my testing conditions (an air conditioned room). Turbo steps down after about two minutes and high steps down gradually from ~5 minutes to ~12 minutes.
Thermal regulation: works great. Anduril arguably has the most sophisticated thermal regulation algorithm in the industry.
LVP: works great. When the cell gets really low, Anduril will lower the brightness in large, obvious steps to serve as a warning and to extend battery life. Then, when the cell is effectively empty, the light will shut off completely. Notably, on my sample with the latest firmware (2021-12-13), LVP works on the button LED too.
Driver & Regulation
The particular driver you get in your D1(V2) will depend on the LED you select. Mine came with a 5A constant current linear driver because I chose an XPL-HI LED. It’s a different shape than KR1’s drivers, but the electronics are the same. You never need to request a particular driver with D1(V2) or KR1 because they will already come with the best driver for the LED you select.
Regulation is average. XPL-HI is a little bit harder to drive than most LED’s because its forward voltage is a bit high. On a linear driver like this, that translates to mediocre regulation.
Note: All regulation measurements are taken at turn-on so they do not reflect any thermal or low voltage stepdowns that may occur. A value of 0 indicates low voltage shutoff immediately upon activation.
PWM: No PWM is visible to my eyes or camera, nor audible to my ears. I did some testing on each mode with an Opple Light Master III and found some mild flickering on Moon (level 1) and Low (level 40) but it’s not PWM. The other modes were flicker-free.
|Switch LED Status||Parasitic Drain (μA)||Time to Drain 3500mah Battery|
Emitter & Beam
D1(V2) is available with a wide variety of emitters. I chose XPL-HI 4000K for mine because I wanted a warmer color temperature and nice tint but it doesn’t wow me. For most users I think SFT40 will be the best choice.
I know SBT90.2 has been popular but I think that’s a poor choice for this host. It costs so much more than most of the other options (literally more than the base price of the light extra), will generate huge amounts of heat, and will drain through an 18650 very quickly. SFT40 will get you nearly as much throw, a very impressive 2200 lumens, costs $45 less, will generate less heat in this very small host, and won’t drain your battery as quickly.
The beam is definitely made for throw as the hotspot is very narrow and the spill is not particularly bright. The brightness difference between the hotspot and spill is not so great that it can’t be used up close though, which can be a problem with some throwers.
In the beamshots above, the trees where I’m aiming the hotspot are 175M away. In the beamshots below, the park bench where I’m aiming the hotspot is 42M away.
Aux LED’s: there are aux LED’s behind the switch. I chose red-only but they’re available in several colors or RGB!. If you don’t want aux LED’s and would prefer a black switch, I’m sure Hank can do that if you ask. Just email email@example.com before your order ships and include your order number and special request.
The switch is the same one used in most of Hank’s side switch lights and uses the same threaded retaining ring as DW4. It’s a good switch with enough tactility and sound that I rarely mis-click. The retaining ring is deep enough that it should do a good job preventing accidental activation. If you do want to lock out the light, electronic lockout & mechanical lockout both work well.
Carry & Ergonomics
Ergonomics are great here. D1(V2) fits very nicely into my hand in a forward grip. I can use the end of my thumb or the first knuckle to actuate the switch, and the cutouts on the head index nicely with my index finger. When the clip is positioned opposite the switch, it fits very comfortably in the bends of my fingers and doesn’t cause any hotspots. It’s a really nice light to hold.
D1(V2) includes Hank’s newest clip design for the 18650-based D-series. Its a very nice deep carry clip with plenty of room for pants material and a wide mouth. My only complaint is that it’s very tight right out of the box, but bending it out a bit fixes that in no time. We can finally buy these D-series 18650 lights without needing to hunt down a good aftermarket clip!
Tailstand: works great and is very stable
There’s also an optional magnet in the tailcap and D1(V2) comes by default with the stronger variant of the magnet, so you don’t need to ask for it separately. It’s very strong and a great inclusion. There’s a lanyard in the box too.
Batteries & Charging
D1(V2) uses one 18650 battery (not included), but you can also buy optional 18350 or 18500 battery tubes. Whatever battery you choose will need to be the unprotected flat top variety, as other cells won’t fit. Most configurations will work great with a ~10A ~3500mah cell, but if you choose SBT90.2 you’ll want to use a ~20A+ ~2500mah cell. I did all of my testing with Molicel M35A’s.
No charging solution is included.
Here are some lights in the same class and how they compare.
Noctigon KR1: Virtually identical size, internals & performance. Tailswitch instead of side switch, no magnetic tailcap, a little more expensive, dramatically different styling.
Noctigon DM11: Virtually identical internals & emitter options, more throw, less spill, TIR instead of reflector, RGB aux LED’s, a bit larger, 21700 battery, no magnetic tailcap, doubles as a cheese grater
This section is not comprehensive. If I didn’t include a particular light here, it doesn’t mean it’s bad or doesn’t deserve to be here. I simply cannot list every possible competitor.
D1(V2) is a light that I’ve wanted to exist for a very long time: a pocketable side switch thrower with all the Hank features. I hoped DM11 would fit the bill, but after testing I found I didn’t like it. KR1 is the right size with all the right features, but sometimes I want a side switch. D1(V2) fills that void perfectly for me and I highly recommend it. The XPL-HI 4000K emitter I chose didn’t turn out to be particularly impressive so I recommend SFT40 for most people.